26 June 2012

Sous Le Vent by Guerlain - Take 2

 I know, I got a bit carried away previously. Now is the time for a proper review.

Sous Le Vent as we know it was released in 2005, but the perfume was composed in 1933 by Jacques Guerlain for Josephine Baker. I can't vouch for the fidelity of the 2005 version to the 1933 original scent because I never had the chance to smell it. However, according to happy fews owning a vintage bottle, the spirit is still there while the modern scent is not as dark as the original.

Sous Le Vent is a green green chypre. There's quite a bit of oakmoss in here, despite current drastic european restrictions on this material.But the start of the perfume is mostly green citrus with aromatics (bergamot, verbena, tarrangon), quickly joined in the heart by lavender, then jasmine, iris, then woods and moss for the drydown.While it seems quite austere and cerebral, danger lurks in this fragrance nonetheless, with a gloopy spoon of civet added to the formula. Or that is maybe a skanky facet of the jasmine that pops up now and then ? The drydown stands at the exact crosspoint of chypre, fougere and leather thanks to its dry woody nature. Very well mannered it wears light and close moments after application but cling on to the skin for hours. This one blooms beautilfully in the heat and is versatile enough to be worn in winter.

I don't get dark skin and exotic beasts while wearing it, rather a beautiful country garden by the seaside in Brittany : aromas of trees, flowers, fruits and aromatic plants are gently surrounded by a light summer breeze fragrant with the salty water nearby, though this fragrance has absolutely no oceanic notes.Recommanded for men and women, spray liberally, marvel at how it's done, forget the rest and surrender to this masterpiece, again and again and again

1 comment:

  1. I love the blend with lemon and civet in the great chypre!